Dreams Do Come True...

Sometimes, when I'm working late and subsequently spending most of my nights and weekends vegetating on the couch, I wonder why I moved to New York. Couldn't I nap just as successfully in head to toe flannel on a much cheaper couch, in a MUCH cheaper apartment in Texas? Probably, but this one moment was worth a thousand naps. After a year in NYC, I finally met my first celebrity. And it was Josh freakin Groban. OMG. You can pretend you don't love him. But the man has the voice of a million angels. And he was singing at Bloomingdales. For free. It was all sorts of magical. Without further ado, Mr. Josh Groban!

Also, he touched my hand and it was just like cuddling a thousand kittens. That is all.

PS - This was quite literally my first ever foray into DSLR photography. I think the pictures actually turned out amazing, considering I only learned what aperture is 2 days ago.

Peru Adventure #3 - Lima Day 1

After months of planning, off we went!

We chose to take an overnight flight from JFK to Lima on LAN Peru. Obviously, there were delays. I say "obviously" because I am consistently a disaster when it comes to travel. I had the privilege of attempting to fly out of London a few years back when the Christmas "Underpants Bomber" incident occurred. I've once boarded a plane only to discover there was a duck stuck in the engine. I've been unnecessarily rerouted to Denver while trying to go in the complete opposite direction and I've had checked luggage somehow end up in the wrong city. So, honestly, I'm totally fine with an hour delay.

Anyway, given the current state of US based airlines, I was very impressed with LAN Peru, even in coach. Wine and Inca Cola flowed freely and there were multiple meals served on the 8-ish hour flight. The timing wasn't great, with dinner being served at about 1am and breakfast at 4 or 5am, but it's the thought that counts! After a few glasses of said free wine, Robert and I enjoyed "Sharknado" in all of its epic awesomeness and then passed out.

We landed, groggy, in Lima. Thankfully, jetlag was practically nonexistent, since Lima is only an hour behind NYC. Nonetheless, the first order of business had to be a good long nap at the hotel. If you have traveled to South or Central America or know anyone who has, you have most likely heard the 2 main warnings: 1) Don't drink the water and 2) Don't get into any cabs. None of our research had any conclusive advice on how to get from the airport to the hotel safely, so we decided to just wing it when we got there. We walked past the black car service kiosk offering rides for $50 US and out into the lobby of the airport. A nice man in a suit ushered us to his taxi, we shrugged and got in.

The scary thing about taxis in Peru is that they are not standardized whatsoever. Cabs come in all colors, makes and models, and sizes. They do have ID numbers painted on the side, but, let's face it, anyone can do that. The taxi line outside the airport seems to be a safe bet, though. They cost a few dollars more, but are much safer than those on the streets outside the airport gates. Another thing to note is that passengers should negotiate the fare before getting in the car, since there are no meters. Having managed to successfully get a decent rate, Robert and I thought our troubles were over.

Peru has 2 Marriotts total. One in Lima. I figured most drivers would know where it is located, but every time I said the name of the hotel, the driver stared at me blankly. Then it dawned on me. "El hotel Mah-RRR-iott, por favor?" I asked, tentatively. Immediately, everything clicked. Weirdly enough, even if you don't speak Spanish, pronouncing English words with a Spanish accent actually really helps.

Finally, we made it to our hotel, the JW Marriott located in the Miraflores district of Lima right on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific. The US Dollar goes a LONG way in Peru. For about $150 we were given a deluxe, high-floor, ocean-view room that would probably run around $400 in the US or Europe. Amazingly, my Silver status with Marriott actually made a difference and we got free Wi-Fi as well.

After a glorious nap, we went out in search of food. Lima is very much like many Latin American cities in that it has very metropolitan and modern parts as well as many poorer and potentially dangerous areas. The district of Miraflores is the safest, wealthiest and most popular with the tourists. It is perched upon a picturesque coastline and is home to some truly incredible food, excellent surfing, shopping, and some historical sites.

The Pacific coastline was absolutely spectacular. However, for better views and weather, I would recommend going in the summer or spring. Lima is extremely foggy and gray most of the winter.

We decided to splurge a bit on our first meal in Peru and headed for La Mar, a restaurant well known for its ceviche and seafood. It did not disappoint! The Ceviche sampler, the scallops, the Devil Fish, and the seafood soup were all awesome. The Chinese influence that's prevalent throughout Peru was definitely noticeable as well. There was also giant corn. HUGE. Pretty sure each individual kernel was about the size of an adult's thumb nail. Speaking of corn, we also tried a Chicha Morada, a traditional purple corn juice drink. (The jury is still out on how I feel about that...) I topped off the meal with my first of many Pisco Sours and we walked all the way back to the hotel along the coastline, admiring the surfers.

Winter is Here!

With the first snow of the season, winter is officially in NYC! Here's Mozart all excited about the snow. Clearly he has selective memory and forgot the time we took him outside to play last year during Winter Storm Nemo...

With this new season, I have resolved to be smarter about my winter wear than last year. Last year I tried too hard. I actually continued to wear heels and real business casual through all the sludge and cold and then sat there, shifting uncomfortably in my seat for 12-17 hours a day during busy season. No more! It appears that everything people say about New York workwear rules is a total lie.Turns out, leggings and boots are acceptable work attire in the winter. I'm sure there's 5% of New York women who still wear business professional wear. I don't know who those women are or where they work, but they're certainly not here. Meanwhile, I've been eyeing $20 leggings at UniQlo that are made to look just like dress pants. Complete with stretchy waist band to accomodate busy season bloat. Yes please. 

Peru Adventure #2: The Packing

So Robert and I had never done any kind of real adventure travel before. Sure, SCUBA diving counts as adventure, but it's not quite the same when afterwards you go back to an all inclusive Caribbean resort, eat a 10 course meal complete with unlimited Pina Coladas, and pass out on the beach. This time, my somewhat high-maintenance self would be trekking in the Amazon and the Andes. (I use the term "trekking" loosely, but still!) So, without further ado, here is a list of the items we found most useful on our trip:

1) The Luggage - Osprey Sojourn 25 ($150 each with free shipping from Backcountry.com) - This is a 60 Liter convertible pack which is one of very few lightweight rolling duffels that converts into a VERY legit large backpack. I was lucky enough to find 2 of these for approximately $150 each at Backcountry.com while they were trying to sell off their stock of discontinued colors. Unfortunately, the full price is about $290. However, this thing has so much going for it, that I would have very likely paid full price. Robert is even getting rid of his traditional suitcases and planning to use this bag exclusively.

Pros:

• Large sturdy wheels were fantastic for going over uneven terrain - rocks, dirt roads, you name it!
• 2 sets of compression straps (one inside and one out) helped keep the size manageable and keep all items securely in place
• Numerous pockets
• Very solid hidden backpack straps - These are very nicely padded, offer lower back support, and even have a waist strap. They are also removable, if you need some extra room for your things
• The bag can be stored relatively flat, unlike a regular rolling suitcase. I managed to store mine inside one of my suitcases, so it literally takes up zero space in the apartment!
• The 60L size (there is also an 80L version) will NOT be considered overweight by airlines when filled to capacity, unless you fill it with bricks.

Cons:

• The straps and wheels make the bag somewhat heavier than a traditional pack. I would not want to be carrying this on my back all day. However, if you anticipate SOME rough terrain, these straps will make your life a lot easier. Conversely, all the other backpackers will glare at you with envy as you roll your pack down city streets and they are still huffing and puffing along.
• The strap attachment takes up space that could be used for more items - Really, a negligible issue.
• This bag only has 2 wheels, so there is no 360 degree rolling capability. Again, not a HUGE deal, but would have been nice to have.
• Not really a con, but, this is NOT a carry on sized bag. Many reviewers on Backcountry gave horrible reviews because they claimed to be misled into thinking this would fit into an overhead bin. Just like the time a woman next to me on a flight attempted to jam a huge rolling suitcase underneath the seat in front of her, all I can say is No. Just NO.

 

You can buy them here, but check several outdoors retailers for potentially better pricing:

Osprey Sojourn 25 Convertible Backpack

 

 

2) The Carry Ons - Eddie Bauer RipPac Duffel and Backpack (Currently $29.95 each at EddieBauer.com) - I got a set of these for each of us (also on sale!) for about $15 each. The regular price is about $30. The usefulness of these cannot be overstated. They fold up tiny and are super light. I wanted the duffels for 2 purposes - 1) the PeruRail trains to Machu Picchu have severe luggage restrictions and do not permit full size luggage and 2) to have the option of some extra space to bring back souvenirs. These were absolutely perfect for both. In fact, due to some ridiculous new TSA regulations (rant to follow), we actually had to check one of these duffels full of Duty Free alcohol and it survived with zero damage! (Don't worry, all the bottles made it too!!)

 

 

 

Buy them here:

RipPac Packable Duffel

RipPac Packable Daypack

 



 

3) The Pants - I am a big fan of Columbia for outdoor and sports clothing/accessories. Also, in my opinion, they make the least horrible hiking pants. Seriously, why can nobody make them reasonably stylish! The men's are usually ok, but the women's always look like you're wearing beige ski pants. For Robert, I just bought several pairs of the generic zip-off convertible pants/shorts things. He was skeptical, but apparently they are so comfortable that he now wears them in the city too (but only while riding his bike!). I, on the other hand, looked like i was wearing paper grocery bags on my legs when I tried on a similar pair, so I went with the ones below instead. I sacrificed the zip-off feature for style and, no, I am not sorry. I even bought a second pair that were capri length.

 

Buy them here:

Columbia Women's Just Right Boot Cut Pant

Columbia Women's Just Right Boot Cut Capri

Columbia Men's Silver Ridge Convertible Pants

 

 

4) The Jackets - Eddie Bauer RipPac Jackets (Currently $60-$70 each at EddieBauer.com) - As you may have gathered by now, I REALLY like all of this Eddie Bauer stuff that folds up really small. All of these things save so much space, that I don't have to feel guilty about overpacking like crazy! I don't actually remember how much I paid for these, since we purchased them for our trip to the El Yunque Rainforest in Puerto Rico a couple of years ago. However, I will say that if you have access to an Eddie Bauer outlet, that is definitely the way to go. I definitely I didn't pay more than $40 per jacket.

 

Now for why these are so great. Both the men's and women's versions are waterproof, VERY wind resistant, and retain body heat extremely well. Several times on our trip, we faced some very unexpected elements including extreme cold, wind, and snow. These jackets paired with some wool/fleece layers underneath were perfect! For reference, the temps went down to the low 30's at a couple of points during the trip and we were (more or less) fine.

 

Buy them here:
The Men's Jacket

The Women's Jacket

 

5) The Bug Spray (!!!) - Repel 40% DEET Insect Repellent ($4.47 on Amazon) - Just some background on bug sprays - For any type of long-term exposure to the outdoors, insect repellent containing DEET is recommended. However, after a certain concentration, it becomes really bad for you. I bought the 40% concentration because it is more than effective enough, while still not strong enough to kill you. Win-win. My main concern in terms of bugs was the Amazon, for obvious reasons. Of course, the bugs outsmarted me and got me good in Machu Picchu where I was least expecting it on the ONE day I didn't use bug spray. But if I had used this awesome spray, maybe my legs would not have been covered in sand fly bites for 2 and a half months after the trip!

 

Buy it here:

Repel 40% DEET Bug Spray

 

6) The Travel Guides - For the longest time I thought having a tablet was kind of unnecessary. But when my mom got me one as a graduation gift, I saw the light. Among many things, the iPad is fantastic for travel. There are tons of useful features from basic entertainment to apps that allow you to download free detailed and interactive city maps that are usable without Internet access.

My favorite, though, is being able to have all of my travel guides in one place. I like to print WikiTravel articles on all potential destinations to PDF and then store them on my iPad. I try not to look at my guides too frequently though, for fear of being flagged by pickpockets as an easy target. But then again, anything I do while being a tourist makes me look like a tourist, so there's really no escaping it. Every time I take out a map or take a photo, I might as well wave a giant American flag while eating a bacon cheeseburger.

 

7) THE REASON I'M STILL HERE TO WRITE THIS - Osprey Verve 13L Hydration Pack and Osprey Raptor 10L Hydration Pack ($109 and $118 respectively on Amazon) - We actually got these at a pretty big mark up at an outdoors store in Lima, but out of all the items we had on the trip, these were THE most worth it. The only thing that still kind of bugs me, considering how much I paid for it, is the awkward spruce color of my bag. Again...why is all women's outdoor stuff soo...awkward...On the other hand, Robert got an awesome red backpack. But anyway, here are the pros and cons:

 

Pros:

 

• These packs are made very intelligently. Each pocket is convenient, well placed, and has the perfect amount of space for what it is intended for.
• Even when full of gear and water, these are so light and hug so close to your back that you can barely feel the weight!
• There are bungie bike helmet holders, so we now use these for biking around the city too.
• I am a giant wimp, so I would have probably had to be air lifted off the mountain at Machu Picchu if it wasn't for this amazing bag. Ok maybe not, but Robert would have definitely had to carry like 7 water bottles for me.

Cons:

• Awkward spruce color that doesn't match any of my outfits. 
 
 

 

Buy them here:

Osprey Women's Verve 13 Hydration Pack

Osprey Men's Raptor 10 Hydration Pack

 

On a side note, while outdoor gear (such as real and knock off North Face) is very easy to get, hydration packs were not at all widely available in Peru. We only saw them in one store and the selection was very limited. Had we know how much we needed these, we definitely would have bought them in the US.

 

8) Last but not least, just for the ladies...This $10 piece of plastic called the "PStyle". Yes. I am serious. Yes. It's gross, but do YOU want to be squatting over some unidentified, potentially poisonous, rainforest plants covered in bugs? No? Then you need this.

 

Buy it here:

YES You Need This!!

 



Peru Adventure #1 - The Itinerary

Earlier this fall Robert and I went on our second major vacation as a couple - to Peru. We had been wanting to go there ever since I read an article saying that Peru was getting ready to expand the airport closest to Machu Picchu to make it more accessible to tourists. From experience, places that are "accessible to tourists" are generally awful, so we made it our goal to get to Peru while the majority of Americans are still a bit wary of South America.

So, we both managed to get 10 days off from work and after a substantial amount of arguing about it, I unilaterally put together the following itinerary for the trip of a lifetime!

• Lima - 2 nights
• Puerto Maldonado (Peruvian Amazon) - 2 nights
• Cusco - 3 nights
• Machu Picchu - 2 nights
• Cusco again - 1 night

Also, since we've already been there and no longer care how touristy it gets, I will now be revealing all of our secrets to a ridiculously awesome South American adventure!